A Guide to the Heart of the Emerald Triangle for the Weed Traveler

As of January 1, 2018, recreational cannabis became legally available for sale in California. Every adult resident and visitor to the state now has the right to legally purchase cannabis or products containing its active components at a variety of licensed establishments. Tourism already brings California $126 billion annually, and it’s clear that even more visitors will flock to the state to spend their money on authentic California OG Kush or a range of processed cannabis products, such as high-THC or CBD extracts. However, the real treasure for cannabis tourism lies deep within the state, in the legendary “Emerald Triangle” region, which is closely tied to the development of cannabis culture in the U.S. In addition to fascinating cultural attractions, this area is also a hub for craft cannabis cultivation, offering visitors hundreds of exotic, rare hybrids. In this guide, we’ll explore the main highlights and must-see spots in Humboldt County, located in the northern coastal forests of California.

When to Visit & How to Get There

The best season to visit is from late May to early November. (For a list of all public events in the area during this season, check this link.) The easiest way to reach Humboldt County is from the south, via San Francisco, which hosts the main international airport for Northern California. This guide is designed as a three-day road trip through the region. Before your trip, we recommend familiarizing yourself with the local customs and culture. Books like “Humboldt: Life on America’s Marijuana Frontier” provide a detailed look at the lives of several generations of cannabis growers, many descended from hippie communes that migrated north in the early 1970s. If you’re not into reading, you can get a feel for the local vibe by listening to a few episodes of the radio show Bud Time, produced by local growers and activists.

Day 1: On the Road to Humboldt

Stop 1: The World’s First Solar-Powered Cannabis Dispensary

Your first cannabis-related stop is Emerald Pharms in Hopland, about two hours north of San Francisco on Highway 101. This dispensary is fully powered by solar panels, which also help cultivate the plants on-site. The shop sits on a 12-acre man-made oasis, created with support from the Solar Living Institute. Besides its innovative greenhouse, Emerald Pharms boasts a collection of organic, recreational-grade cannabis, including signature strains like Gelato from the True Humboldt line. After shopping, enjoy the surrounding park, with its ponds and dioramas illustrating the workings of an energy-independent plantation.

Stop 2: Sampling Local Organic Cuisine

Twenty minutes up the road is Ukiah, the largest town in Mendocino County, which, along with neighboring Trinity and Humboldt counties, forms the core of the Emerald Triangle. Ukiah is a great place for a lunch break, offering affordable, locally grown organic food. Recommended spots:

• Tastebuds: A small vegetarian restaurant serving Jamaican-Caribbean cuisine, made with fresh, local produce. Try the lentil-plantain combo ($12) with house-made ginger ale.
• Ukiah Brewery Company: Sample two craft beers for $9 and enjoy a wide selection of dishes made with local organic veggies and fresh seafood. The Cowboy Burger ($16) is a standout, featuring juicy pork patties with house BBQ sauce, local cheese, and veggies.

Stop 3: Ukiah Farmers Market

Before heading deeper into the wilds of the Emerald Triangle, stock up on supplies at the local farmers market. It’s a community co-op run by local farmers, offering fresh produce, meat, seafood, baked goods, and snacks. Since stores are scarce in the forested areas ahead, make sure you have enough food and essentials for the road.

Stop 4: Orr Hot Springs

Orr Hot Springs operates more like a public bathhouse than a spa, so expect to soak with strangers (nudity is common). If that doesn’t bother you, enjoy this small, family-run resort that’s been around since the 1930s. Guests can relax in the sauna and several lithium-rich mineral pools, and there’s a private smoking area for cannabis. Reservations are required, especially on weekends or during summer. Stay overnight in a tent site ($70/night) or a cabin/yurt ($210/night for up to three people). The springs are next to Montgomery Woods State Natural Reserve, a grove of ancient redwoods—perfect for a peaceful walk after your soak. Spend the night here to rest up for the next stage of your journey into legendary cannabis country.

Day 2: Behind the Redwood Curtain

Check-out at Orr Hot Springs is at 2 p.m., giving you plenty of time for a morning smoke and hearty breakfast before heading north on Highway 101. The Humboldt County line is marked by the scenic Richardson Grove State Park, a 2,000-acre redwood forest you can enjoy even from your car. In summer, stop for a swim in the slow-moving Eel River.

Stop 1: Lunch with a Cannabis Farmer

While many tourists stay at well-known spots like the historic Benbow Inn, for a true taste of local cannabis culture, head to Garberville. This colorful town is a hub for growers and trimmers. During harvest season, many people come here to work trimming buds for $100–$150 per pound, with room and board included. For lunch, choose between:

• Trillium Cat Café: A laid-back spot popular with trimmers, offering a relaxed vibe and hearty meals. Try the chef’s meat pasta ($15).
• Cecil’s New Orleans Bistro: A step up in both price and flavor, with dishes like baked catfish in a pecan crust with garlic mashed potatoes ($27).

Before dinner, check out The Hemp Collection, which claims to be “America’s oldest hemp store” (opened in 2012). They sell hemp clothing, cosmetics, and other non-psychoactive products, and it’s a community hub for local cannabis enthusiasts.

Stop 2: Shelter Cove Beach

Garberville is just an hour from the Pacific coast and the stunning, lesser-known Shelter Cove. The drive is winding and can be windy, but the free parking and dramatic scenery are worth it. It’s a great spot for photography, surfing, and rock climbing. Check the weather before you go, as storms can make the area dangerous.

Stop 3: The Lost Coast to Eureka

If you have a 4WD vehicle, consider driving the rural coastal roads along the Lost Coast, the wildest, most untouched part of California. The trip can take at least three hours and the roads may be rough or washed out, so plan accordingly. Alternatively, take Highway 101 straight to Eureka, the largest city in Humboldt County. Visit the “Old Town” for historic sites and unique shops like Humboldt Bay Provisions, offering local beer, wine, cider, cheese, pickles, baked goods, and fresh salmon. Despite the ongoing ban on cannabis sales, they already advertise local recreational strains. Also, check out the Kinetic Museum for kinetic sculptures and quirky bikes from the local Kinetic Grand Championship. From April to early September, you can also catch drag races featuring everything from classic American cars to modern hybrids.

Stop 4: Arcata and Its Historic Hotel

The luxurious, historic Hotel Arcata, 20 minutes north of Eureka, transports you back to the early 20th century. Opened in 1915 as a gentlemen’s hunting club, the hotel still features century-old wood furniture and authentic cast-iron tubs (don’t worry, there’s Wi-Fi and cable TV). Rooms are available for smokers and non-smokers; book a smoking room ($120/night) to enjoy a joint after dinner. Arcata itself is a lively town of about 18,000 people, centered around the main square. Notable spots include:

• The Alibi: A central cocktail bar, great for sampling local beers and meeting locals.
• Arcata Theatre: A community theater in a converted cinema, hosting improv comedy, DJs, and more.
• The Jam: A comedy club known for cannabis-themed jokes and a tolerant atmosphere, frequented by local growers and farm workers.
• Richard’s Goat Tavern: A pricier, exclusive bar with a selection of cocktails, exotic teas, and local pastries.
• Don’s Donuts: A classic American diner open 24/7, serving pizza, sandwiches, and fresh donuts—perfect for a late-night snack and meeting fellow cannabis fans.

Day 3: The Road Back to Reality

Stop 1: Trinidad, California’s Northern Edge

Fifteen minutes north of Arcata is Trinidad, a small coastal town near the state border. Park by the historic lighthouse and stroll the beaches, enjoying your remaining cannabis and watching migrating whales in late summer. Climb the lighthouse for panoramic ocean views, or grab breakfast or lunch at a seaside hippie café—try the signature eggs with secret chili sauce and a cup of organic coffee. Relax on the beach and watch as local cannabis farmers join you after work. You can also walk north to Agate Beach to hunt for agate stones, or visit natural landmarks like Fern Canyon or the Redwood National and State Parks (where scenes from Star Wars: Return of the Jedi were filmed). When you’re ready, start heading back toward San Francisco and the bustle of city life.

Stop 2: Return to Arcata

Your return route will take you through Arcata again, so take the opportunity to visit any missed attractions. Check out the Humboldt Patient Resource Center, one of the oldest cannabis dispensaries in the state, serving the community for over 20 years. Try local, eco-certified Humboldt hybrids for a true taste of California cannabis. You can also visit the Emerald Art Center, the largest glass sculpture museum in the U.S., open by reservation on Saturdays.

Stop 3: Historic Ferndale

Forty minutes south of Arcata is Ferndale, a quiet, historic farming town. Park by the historic cemetery and walk the trails up the hill for panoramic views of the town and surrounding fields, including cannabis crops. Grab a bite at Papa Joe’s on Main Street (note: many small-town diners close by 2 p.m.), then stroll through town to admire its well-preserved Victorian architecture. If you’re there on a Wednesday, try Joe’s signature BBQ with biscuits and spicy sauce.

Stop 4: Avenue of the Giants

Another 40 minutes south, take a detour off Highway 101 to visit the famous Avenue of the Giants. This 31-mile scenic drive runs parallel to the highway through some of the oldest and tallest redwoods in the state. Don’t just admire the view from your car—get out and walk the trails to truly experience these majestic trees. This is a great spot to discreetly enjoy some of your Humboldt cannabis before leaving the Emerald Triangle and returning to areas where prohibition still reigns.

Stop 5: Confusion Hill

Finally, at the county border, you’ll find one last quirky attraction: Confusion Hill. This roadside oddity, entertaining travelers since 1949, features a gravity-defying house, a shoe-shaped cabin carved from a redwood, and the world’s tallest carved wooden sculpture (according to Ripley’s Believe It or Not). You can also ride a miniature train through the redwoods. The rest of the exhibits must be seen to be believed!

Author: David Bienenstock